A day on a refugee rescue ship: 'this job must be done, there must be no sinking'
On board a merchant ship around 30 miles north of Libya,
Gordie Hatt hurries up the stairs to the bridge, his long white hair
tied back in a ponytail. “Where is everyone?” says the 63-year-old
Canadian, bursting from the staircase. “It’s just Amani and me down on
deck, and we have a thousand people trying to find a place to sleep.”
Hatt has a point. This is the bridge of the Bourbon Argos, one of
three merchant ships hired by Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) to rescue
stricken refugees from the waters north of Libya, in the absence of
full-scale EU rescue operations. Earlier in the morning the crew rescued
two boats in quick succession, a pair of operations that brought 1,001
refugees aboard the Argos, almost all of them Eritreans. The boat is
only supposed to take 500, so Hatt needs all the help he can get on
deck.
But what he doesn’t know is that an even bigger problem is
unravelling in the waters in front of the boat, consuming his
colleagues’ attention. In this bit of the southern Mediterranean, there
are nine rescue operations in progress, involving MSF’s boats, the
Italian coastguards and a few warships from European navies. But it’s
not enough. From the bridge, Hatt’s colleagues can see two more flimsy
refugee boats on the water, and only one of them is being rescued.The Argos cannot safely take on any more passengers, so Sebastian
Klein, the MSF team’s 34-year-old second-in-command, stands by the radar
monitor looking grim. “We can’t help them,” says Klein, a Norwegian.
“The only difference would be if they started sinking and we had to
rescue them.”The situation is already tense enough when Klein’s boss, Lindis
Hurum, picks up the bridge telephone, and radios another rescue ship in
the area. “Does your boat have a gynaecologist?” she asks. “We have a
very pregnant woman onboard who needs to deliver within 24 hours.”Even as the smuggling season begins to wind down, this is the reality
in the southern Mediterranean, 30-odd miles north of the smuggling
ports of western Libya. In recent months the media’s migration coverage
has shifted from here to the beaches of Greece and the plains of the Balkans,
along the new routes that Syrian refugees are taking to reach the EU.
But even without the Syrians, the number of people attempting the sea
crossing from Libya to Italy has remained near record levels. And record
numbers have died in doing so.
According to figures released to the Guardian by the International
Organisation for Migration on Tuesday, 130,891 people have reached Italy
so far in 2015, only marginally fewer than the record 138,796 who
crossed during the equivalent period last year. Since May
the EU has stepped up its search-and-rescue missions in the region. But
the operations are still understaffed, as this incident in early
September shows, and are overly reliant on private groups such as the
Migrant Offshore Aid Station (Moas), and MSF.
The Bourbon Argos in the southern Mediterranean. Photograph: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP/Getty Images
For most of the Bourbon Argos team, the action starts at 6.19am when
Hurum knocks on the doors of their tiny four-man cabins. A veteran of
MSF’s Ebola mission in west Africa, she has been up all night monitoring
the boats situation. Her vigilance pays off at dawn when Italy’s Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre
(MRCC) radios to say that a refugee vessel just outside Libyan waters
has called for help, using a satellite phone given to the refugees by
smugglers.
“You have 30 minutes,” Hurum tells the 10-strong team as she wakes
them up. There’s a frenzy of rustling and stumbling as they reach for
their lifejackets and helmets. They gather downstairs in the calm of the
mess room, where the muffled blare of the ship’s huge engine sounds
like the throb of a distant club night. There’s Hatt, a former navy
technician whose job is to fix, build or invent any contraption that the
team might need; Amani, an Eritrean interpreter who braved the sea
voyage 13 years ago and has returned to the same waters to help rescue
people following in his footsteps; and Irene Paola Martino, who runs the
ship’s makeshift hospital. Her sub-team includes Dr Matthias Heukäufer,
a cardiologist who has spent most of his career in a quiet university
hospital, and two nurses, Line Lootens and Gaia Cortinovis. Hurum tells
them all to be ready for more than one rescue. “MRCC wants to know: how
many can we take?”
Around the MSF team, the ship’s sailors are donning overalls and gas
masks. At times it’s been a bit of a culture clash. MSF hires the boat
from a merchant fleet called Bourbon, which employs the boat’s Ukrainian
officers and Filipino seamen. They’re men who stick to strict
timetables and hierarchies, while MSF’s multinational team pride
themselves on their flexibility and egalitarianism. And they’re used to
transporting fuel and anchors, not traumatised refugees with scabies and
head lice.
Refugee children use colouring books on the deck of Bourbon Argos. Photograph: Darrin Zammit Lupi / Reuters/Reuters
But gradually they’ve warmed to this unusual job. After weeks
rescuing refugees, first mate Glib Grygoriuk now bristles when he sees
them numbered on arrival in Italy. “They’re people, not numbers,” he
says. Captain Ruslan Voznyuk is never seen without a black T-shirt from
the Right Sector, a nationalist militia in Ukraine, and says he isn’t
certain about immigration. But he is proud of his mission and
enthusiastic about the aid workers on his ship. “This job must be done,”
the captain says. “In the sea there must be no sinking. God gives life
so people must live.”
Briefing over, the team prepare the boat. Most things are ready: the
portable cabin that houses the makeshift hospital is already pristine,
the mini-morgue that will house any corpses is cold, the toilets are
clean. Now the ship’s dinghy needs to be winched into the water, and a
rope ladder put in position.
Up on the forecastle, Hurum and Klein scan the sea through their
binoculars for the first signs of the boat. For a while they just see
the red morning sun edging over the horizon. But then there it is, a
distant black sliver between the water and the sky. It edges closer and
closer, until you can see a few flecks of orange against the black – the
lifejackets of those on board.
Finally, the boat’s contours emerge more clearly. The smugglers
usually cram the refugees on three kinds of equally unreliable vessels.
The first is the inflatable dinghy, which often deflates. The second is
the wooden fishing boat, complete with a cabin. Then there’s the
cabin-less kind, the wooden skiffs that have just a deck and a hold.
This is one of the latter, a blue boat with a white line running
along its side. And soon it’s so close that you can see the passengers’
faces. One is crying, others are smiling, some are singing with joy. In
the openings that lead to the hold, men peer from the darkness. Up on
deck people eat bananas, and at the ship’s stern lounge two lone
Libyans. Nael Nasser, a mediator and translator like Amani, is relieved.
“They seem calm,” he says. “It should be an easy rescue.”
But these things are never simple. As the Argos glides alongside the
refugees, shielding the smaller boat from the waves, the crew can see
that the Eritreans are using a bucket to bale out the hold. How much
longer the boat will stay afloat is unclear. The welfare of the
passengers packed inside the hold is also a concern. The lack of
ventilation, coupled with the fumes of the engine, often suffocates
people trapped in their hundreds below deck. More than 50 died like this
last month.
Then there’s the possibility of panic. By this point in other
rescues, passengers have been known to try to sink their own boat, to
make sure their saviours don’t give up on them. Last week 600 refugees
ignored instructions to leave their boat one by one and instead piled on
to the Argos in any way they could.
It’s Amani’s role to avoid a repeat of that. He raises the
loudhailer. “Stay calm,” he says in Tigrinya, the most widely spoken
Eritrean language. “Stay where you are. We have enough places for you
all. But please come one by one.” Ropes are thrown, and the ladder is
lowered. The rescue begins.
One by one they totter uncertainly up the ladder to the Argos. Some
can barely walk, their legs cramped and numb from hours of sitting in
the same position, trapped between their neighbours. Some are covered in
vomit after choking on the fumes in the hold. But as they step on to
the deck and Hatt extends a hand and a hello, relief blooms across their
faces. Soon they are collectively singing hymns.
Moments after arriving on the Argos, Eritrean refugees sing to celebrate surviving the sea, the Sahara, and the hell of Libya.
“I must thank you,” says Lingo, a 35-year-old Eritrean geography
teacher who, it later emerges, was sent to a forced labour camp
alongside Amani in 2001. “When we saw you, we automatically changed from
animals into humans.”
For the vast majority of the passengers on this boat and on the one rescued an hour later, the trauma began in Eritrea.
It is hard for outsiders to comprehend the level of control the
Eritrean dictatorship exerts on its citizens. The headline facts are
that there is no constitution, no court system, no elections and no free
press. But the intricacies of its repression can be summarised by the
lives of Lingo and his friend Tadese, a 33-year-old doctor.
Like all Eritreans, they remain lifelong military conscripts, free
for deployment in any capacity and at any time the state sees fit. Many
remain in the army. But this pair were posted to government institutions
hundreds of miles from their home, unable to see their family except
for 11 days a year. It meant accepting salaries worth just a few dozen
dollars a month, without the right to earn extra money in the
non-existent private sector. And it meant regularly reporting for
military duty, often at night after work, and always in the school
holidays.
“I will say this again and again and again,” says Tadese, sitting on
deck after his rescue. “Living in Eritrea is worse than death.”
Hundreds of thousands of his countrymen appear to agree, since they
are leaving in their droves. Before Lingo fled the country, his class
had dwindled from 62 to seven students, such is the rate of departure.
There is no set route out of the country. Many pay smugglers
thousands of dollars to escape over the nearest border to either
Ethiopia or Sudan. But for those travelling north to Libya, like the
people on the Argos, everyone must travel through Khartoum, the Sudanese
capital. It is a hellish journey. First the Sudanese smugglers store
their passengers in walled compounds in Omdurman, on the western side of
the city. Then in the small hours of the morning they’re crammed into
lorries – hundreds of people in each – and driven through the desert to
the Libyan border. Then they are handed over to Libyan smugglers, who
put them in Toyota pick-ups – 30 crammed into the tiny space at the back
of the truck. Finally they’re driven to Ajdabiya, in north-east Libya.
According to the Eritreans on the Argos, it’s a journey worse than
the sea voyage. For a start, in the desert it’s very easy to get lost,
run out of fuel and die of thirst. You can get attacked by bandits and
militias. You’re packed like sardines into the back of the truck, so on
most trips someone dies of dehydration or falls off the side. Alex
Solomon, a 26-year-old on the Argos, says eight people in his car died
in the heat. Others suffered broken limbs after their car overturned,
and still haven’t seen a doctor when they are rescued by MSF several
weeks later. On arrival in Ajdabiya, Tadese says, he was unconscious
from dehydration.
In Ajdabiya the treatment is no better. You’re locked in a compound
until your family pays a colleague of the smugglers in whatever country
they’re in. No one pays upfront, because the smugglers might not take
you all the way, and no one carries cash on them, because it will be
stolen (though one woman on the Argos was treated for bruising after
hiding $400 in her vagina). This particular group each had to pay $1,600
(£1,050) in retrospective payment for the desert journey. And if your
family hasn’t got the money, the smugglers torture you while your family
listens on the phone. “Every day they punished me by beating me with a
stick, and then a rifle butt on my back,” says Eissa Abdirahman, one of a
handful of Somalians on the boat, and a footballer who fled home after
being threatened with assassination by jihadis opposed to playing
western sport. “I stayed a month like that.”
Once their families had paid, the refugees were driven west to Ben
Walid, many packed into sealed containers. This is because the drive to
Ben Walid is through Islamic State territory. If Isis fighters know
there are refugees in the truck, they’ll stop it, leave the Muslims and
take the Christians. Nine people on this boat were held by Isis and
threatened with execution. One, 20-year-old Afwerki, was shot in the leg
as he tried to escape. Another, Natsenet, who only managed to escape
when a bomb hit the jihadi camp, recalls: “Every day they asked us to
convert to Islam.”
A refugee and her child on the deck of Bourbon Argos. Photograph: Darrin Zammit Lupi/Reuters
Life didn’t get better when they finally arrived in Ben Walid. There
they were held in another smuggler’s compound, and the same process
followed: jail and torture until their families paid an associate of the
smuggler back home. This time the price was $2,000 – an advance payment
for the luxury of the sea voyage. Once that was paid, they were moved
to a third compound, known as a mazraa, near the sea. Again
they waited in squalid conditions, usually for a week or more but
sometimes months. Food was distributed once a day, and there were
regular beatings. Women are often raped. For some people, the boat is
almost a relief.
“All the suffering that a human can suffer happens in this mazraa,”
says Tadese as the Argos rumbles towards Italy. “Of course, we knew
about what it would be like before we got there. So why did we choose
it? Because we want freedom. Because we want to escape from the
conditions of our nation. And if the situation there continues, people
will never stop coming.”
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